Shantung

Description : The surface of Shantung is both crisp and has a sheen. It may have slubs similar to those found in Duppioni silk.
Fabrication : Shantung silk is produced from wild silk, and therefore it has had very little or no sericin removed, the gummy substance that clings to silkworm thread within the cocoon. This results in the thicker and heavier appearance of shantung silk, as well as its lower cost compared to more processed silk.
Subtypes :
Dyes, color treatment and washing characteristics : Silk Shantung holds color well and hence is available in a wide range of colors. However, Shantung silk should be preshrunk using steam or dry cleaned. The fabric will lose both lustre and body if laundered.
Draping properties : Drape is better in the cross-grain direction than on the straight grain.
Cutting properties : Cut in a double thickness layout. When drape is required, cut in the direction of the cross-grain. Press with a dry iron on the "silk" setting (medium-low heat), and avoid water which can cause water spots.
Sewing challenges : Avoid seams on the straight grain. Hold the fabric taut, front and back, while stitching. Fabric is prone to wrinkling, therefore it should be underlined, preferably in a fabric like silk organza. Alternatively, each separate piece may be interfaced with fusible knitted tricot, resulting in a 70% decrease in wrinkles,although this may cause the surface to change luster somewhat. Finish seams by serging or with a flatfell seam. Hem with a Hong Kong finish or serged.
Example creations : grey collar, diamond pillow,
Uses worldwide : Used for tailored pants, jackets, fitted dresses, straight skirts, vests and formal dresses with full skirts.
Origins and history : Shantung silk is named for the part of China from which it originates - it has been exported for several hundred years. It is traditionally a hand-loomed silk that is soft and slightly textured, as uneven yarns are used for its weaving.
Wikipedia reference : none.

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