Acetate

Description : A cellulose fabric with superb drape, comfort, color, lustre and resistance to moths, but which loses color with wear, perspiration and dry cleaning. It is soft, smooth, dry and resilient, but also breathes, dries quickly and generates no static cling effect, making it a more comfortable synthetic fibre to wear than many others. Indeed, it is cool in the summer and warm in the winter. It's superb draping qualities make it a consistent choice for garment linings. It is also blended with silk, cotton, wool, nylon and other fibres to provide the resultant fabric with wrinkle recovery properties, good handle and drape, and quick drying among other properties.
Fabrication : This fibre is obtained by deconstructing wood or cotton pulp into a purified white cellulose liquid.
Subtypes : Different variants exist, including Aceta, Albene, Fortisan, Rhodia and Setilose.
Acetate lining (Courtesy of fabricmart.com)Dyes, color treatment and washing characteristics : Acetate takes on deep and brilliant shades of dyeing that are colorfast, but it requires a special type of dye. It doesn't shrink with washing. It is not a particularly strong fibre, however, and loses strength when wet. Acetate can be dyed as a yarn and then woven together with other fibres to create patterns, or it can be solution-dyed after woven with good color fastness. It usually requires dry cleaning, however. Most acetate fabrics require drycleaning - a few can be hand washed in a mild detergent.
Draping properties :
Cutting properties : Many acetate fabrics are easily marred by pinholes, seam ripping and water spots. You should use superfine pins and try to keep pins in the seam allowance.
Sewing challenges : Acetate has low heat resistance, meaning that it must be ironed or pressed with a cool iron, or the fabric will melt. Also, both acetate and triacetate require the use of fine and fresh needles, as the fabric tends to pucker and form bubbles along the seam lines. Bulky finishes should be avoided, on hems for example. When possible, avoiding making seams on the straight grain.
Example creations : jacket, purse,
Acetate fabric with diamond pattern (Courtesy of fabricmart.com)Uses worldwide : Used in linings, blouses and dresses, some sportswear, wedding attire, party attire, evening wear and lounge wear.
Origins and history : Originally introduced as early as 1865, this semi-synthetic fibre was developed at the beginning of the 20th century by two young Swiss chemists, Camille Dreyfus and his brother Henri. However, it wasn't until just before the outbreak of the First World War that a commercially viable textile form of acetate was developed, essentially as a competing product to silk. This was trademarked as Celanese in 1924. Strongly resisted by the silk industry, acetate finally found its place due to its property of holding a crease - this became the basis of a new industry in commercial pleated fabrics.
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